SEAVALLEY
UO IN THE MOUNTAINS
of Giuseppe Bambini
The
excursion we propose here, the characteristics of which are listed in the
altimetrical profile, unfolds along peaceful dirt roads and small country
roads accessible to all and offers out of the ordinary views of the woody
Eastern slope of Mount Subasio. The entire itinerary is characterized by
powerful oaks whose presence is due principally to the clayey nature of
the hills which look out over the Topino River. These have been planted
and cared for by man since the times of the Umbrians: they are not nature
but culture. When the leaves fall, among the bare branches it is easy to
descry the presence of the "golden branch": mistletoe with its
golden fruits, symbol of light and of life which regenerates itself. Since
this is a parasitic plant which does not have its roots in the earth, it
used to be said that it had come down from the sky, that it was a divine
emanation. The Celts called mistletoe "that which cures all."
This mysterious plant was the central element in a complex ceremony which
was held during the rites connected with the winter solstice. The Druids
-- the priests and prophets of the ancient Celts --gathered it with a
golden sickle and were careful not to let it touch the ground; the water
in which it was subsequently immersed was held to be an efficacious
antidote for curses and spells. Even today, the gift of a branch of
mistletoe on New Year's Eve -- to be hung up inside above the door --
brings good luck. And as for you skeptics, it certainly does no harm!
We recommend comfortable clothing and shoes suitable for a trip to the
mountains. Bring a knapsack with something to eat and drink in it, a rain
slicker, compass, and altimeter, the Map of the Trails of Mount Subasio on
a scale of 1:20000 of the C.A.I section of Foligno, binocculars to enjoy
the view and a camera for memories.
By car: from Piazza Matteotti (445 m) go out under Porta Perlici and take
the SS 444 (of Mount Subasio) road in the direction of Gualdo Tadino.
After about 500 m leave the SS 444 road and go right (following signs for
Costa Trex and Armenzano). The narrow asphalt road, in slight but constant
ascent, leads you to the few houses of Costa di Trex (573m - 5km), then to
Armenzano (759 m -10km). Here leave the SP 249 road and continue on to the
left: after skirting the walls of the castle, go left again on a road
which goes down. Once you have passed small cemetery shaded by cypresses,
you will come to a saddle, the Armenzano Cross (627 m - 11.5 kilometers
from Piazza Matteotti) where numerous roads and paths intersect. You will
recognize the spot because of a small country shrine here made of bricks
and a characteristic country tower for doves. The saddle is the watershed
between the Cavaliero Channel (N-W), a tributary of the Tescio Torrent and
the Anna Channel (S-E), confluent of the Topino River.
Itinerary: from the Armenzano Cross (627m) begin to walk (E) along the
dirt road and after a few meters you will reach a fork where you bear to
the right on a road which ascends slightly. After you have passed
alongside the country dove tower, continue along the peaceful dirt road.
Towards the right, a view will open up of the broad head of the Anna
Channel and of the eastern slope of Mount Subasio, deeply furrowed with
numerous streams. You will reach Falcioni Alto (684 m - 20 min from your
departure) signaled by various man-made structures -- houses and stables
for animals -- in a complete state of abandonment. Here go left and after
a few meters turn right; once you have crossed a metal fence, continue
along (N-E) on a grassy path through uncultivated fields which will bring
you to a saddle between two modest rises. On the little hill on the left
(700m) -- delimited below by a dry stone wall -- remains of a country
villa from Roman times have been found; no visible trace of the villa
remains above ground except for a few square blocks and numerous fragments
of pottery. The presence here now of small cement fireplaces, which
perhaps anticipate debatable tourist "fruits" in the future is a
real disappointment.
Return to the Falcioni Alto fork (15 min round-trip) and continue on to
the left (S-E) with various brief descents and ascents. The dirt road will
wind along the earthen partition which separates the head of the Anna
Channel (on the right) from the head of Rio Channel (on the left), both
tributaries of the Topino River, while all around you, revealed in all its
harmony, lies the countryside so typical of Umbria: minuscule villages,
isolated farmhouses, woods, cultivated fields, and oak trees in the midst
of fields, all to be leisurely savored. Continuing on in the same
direction, you will come to the intersection at Casurci (701 m - 25 min
from Falcioni Alto), a minuscule farming village.
Here you must change direction and turn right onto an ascending road which
winds around the Solfea hill. On your left, the view widens to include the
Apennines of Umbria and the Marches with the stubby mass of Mount Pennino
(E) and the mountains of Gualdo Tadino (N). Once you have crossed a
mountain pass (720 m), the road begins to descend and Mount Subasio will
reappear on your left. At the next fork, shift direction again and turn
right: a dirt road (interrupted several times) will descend through
vineyards and oaks and bring you to the few houses of Vallemare (Seavalley)
(660 m - 15 min from Casurci).
This toponym, truly unique among Mount Subasio's spurs, has given rise to
various interpretations and legends, the most convincing of which is
supplied by Arnoldo Fortini: (in 969, an entire population was
transplanted from the land of Puglia, at the time of Pandolfo Testadiferro,
duke of Spoleto who, at the head of the imperial army of Otto I, conquered
and subdued the Saracens and Byzantines in that region." Perhaps this
reference to the sea in this valley makes one remember that people. In
addition, the presence of last names with the prefix "de" or
"di" -- unusual, given the "genitive" last names in
this area -- could be another small bit of supporting evidence.
Continue your descent and you will come out almost immediately on the
narrow asphalt road from Valtopina. Here turn right until you come to the
small inhabited village of Colle Silvo (544 m - 10 min from Vallemare),
which you will have seen for some time in the distance. The charming
panorama here invites the traveler to make a well-deserved stop.
Retracing your steps for some thirty or forty meters, you will come to a
curve to the right. Here turn instead to the left (N) onto a small
descending road which will begin to wind around the woody head of the Anna
Channel, watched over from above by the castle of Armenzano. Once you have
passed the small in-cut channel of Colle Silvo, you will come to an
intersection. Here go straight down (N), then cross the Cacciaragani
Channel (490 m) which is the left branch of the Anna Channel.
Continue on the opposite side which winds up steeply, flanking a fence.
Shortly after, the path levels out: on your left, vast fields with trees
for timber and vines. You will cross a "pass" between two oaks
which face each other, the one on your left is an imposing tree and seems
to be completely enveloped, up to its topmost leaves, by a stubborn
creeping plant which has a trunk of its own of notable dimensions.
The shrine of Armenzano Cross (627 m - 40 min from Colle) is just two
steps away.
A Seavalley up here was really the last thing I'd expected!